Re: Project economic JK
Posted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 7:49 am
nothing is economical about mods
Yes i know, this is what makes me still thinking about the D60 ... i really hope i can find a wrecked F250 D60 ( or D60HD .... ) front axle - this would be much better. 35 Spline all the way and the same width as my Ford 9.75 rear axleossme wrote:In Dana 44, the 35 splines is only bigger at the splines area. The rest of the shaft is the same.
If you only going to buy the housing then I would go with dynatrac 44 instead of a rubicon housing. You will pay extra $600 but you don't need to reinforce it anymore.
This is unfair!ossme wrote: For tj it is different because we can buy a rubicon housing for $800 and reinforce it for $99!
No - but the fuel consumption offroad is now around 25-30 liter / 100km for easy trips.Bu Nassir wrote:nothing is economical about mods
indeed ... finally it's getting thereossme wrote:HE HE ! at least you have good news today !
I rechecked the Internet and the Warn VTC needs 140 Amps at max.
MalteJK wrote:...and of course not pushing the car
Of course i can.Xof wrote:really, you can do that??? wow, that a great step torward wisdom and maturityMalteJK wrote:...and of course not pushing the car
Xof wrote:did you get armoured studs for your wheels?
this is a very good hypothesys... i would agree with it. Still, for some time, you should remove your rear well time by time and check that your studs are not cracked or sheared...MalteJK wrote: Me and my mechanic suspecting the turning shop to have heated the studs before inserting them...
oh yes believe me, i take close looks at my wheels now every time i'm near them. And i know I was really lucky that day - i don't want that to happen ever again on my car. I took off my wheels last time i was in the workshop and took close a look at the studs (again) - they looked good and did not have any damage or cracks.Xof wrote: you are "armouring" your full line to bear with the power, but sooner or later the weakest link breaks... so, we have identified one. Just make sure it was just due to missused from the turning shop.
Thanks its a nice idea - maybe i'll give it a try.latief wrote:Remove the weather strip(rubber piece) between the hood and body towards the cabin. this creates a good sized gap in the rear of the engine bay which allows for some venting. i do this on trips all the time and i think it helps a bit
sorry to hear about the trouble