Re: Project economic JK
Posted: Tue May 01, 2012 8:45 am
I think the heat reduction hood is a good investment - my car never heats up so I guess it's a bit more than something with only cosmetic value!
Thx for the hint @Ossme, will do that & sry to block the wayossme wrote:Check with Ranger Regarding the AEV hood. I'm sure it will be much cheaper than that !
BTW, you truck is blocking my spot in the Exhaust shop !
MLC wrote:I think the heat reduction hood is a good investment - my car never heats up so I guess it's a bit more than something with only cosmetic value!
I don't have any issue while idling or in slow traffic.latief wrote: i know you probably heard this/ know this by now, and sorry if it is repeated but if you have an overheating problem while driving, means you have a coolant flow issue (pump / clogged radiator). if you have overheating problems while idling/ or in slow traffic you have an air flow problem (fan/ obstruction). in custom applications such as yours, you might have a combination of both + radiator capacity issue.....
Sean, guess who's missing driving in the sand as well ... - hope to be an active part of team dubai soon againSean wrote:Malte, when we have you back??? been too long man...and for sure you have had a lot of fun with your car... and more fun to come
Ouch Look fwd to having you back in June..MalteJK wrote:Ok for the sake of it :
jeep is broken again (suprise suprise) ... Once again the 6L80 and i think this time again they made something wrong while
reassembling it from the last repair.
On top of that the complete engine, gearbox and transfercase mounting will be redone (incl. new driveshafts) because i need more space behind my radiator (currently 1 cm only) . I wrote griffinradiators about my specific needs already and will order a nice custom 2 x 1,5 in alu crossflow radiator from them.
On top of that my hood got some custom louvers.
And finally the switch for the manual mode is there.
Summa summarum : I hope to have the beast back in the middle of June ... then capable of a lot of outside heat and with manual mode shifting ...
Oh and already achieved : the car is now super quiet and i have finally A/C .
Of course they did not do exactly what i wanted ... but anyhow it seems ok so far.
They've put 2 x 2,5 in tubes to the first muffler and then 2 x 2,5 until the catback where in front of the catback the 2x2,5 join together in one 3,5 pipe, then into the muffler from where they exit with 2 x 2,5 again.
I wanted a crosspipe and then a complete independant exhaust for each side ... but ok well it does the job.
a great! Thx chafik ... that is what i was searching for - don't tell me you have the complete wiring schematics ( auch haben will ) For the Novak kit - i know this kit already - i only thought that there might be a tc which comes per default with 32 spline input ...SSS wrote:http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_453.htm
... and regarding the reverse light switch on the 42rle ... the 42rle has a built in transmission range sensor which signals the pcm park/neutral/reverse and the gears ... I have somewhere a table ... lemme dig ... found it ... but print to pdf does not work from secured pdfs ... so here the screenshot of the pin out ... HEUREKA there is a seperate backup lamp feed :
but probably it is NOT VT/BLK (violet black) on the JK ... but the CAV 6 pin on the connector should be right ... so I hope they did not cut anything off
SSS wrote:have you searched at pirate4x4? if you are not registered and unable to use their search you can add pirate4x4 to your google search ... they get crawled!
and regarding the wiring diags ... YES ... it is a multiple thousands pages FSM for 2004 - 2006
the pdf is 33MB
You know you need additionally something called D300 flip kit, right?
yes a properly built atlas2 would be an option as well.SSS wrote: aaand
Advance Adapters have a Atlas II to NV4500 solution ... check out the torque ratings and the adaptability of the atlas ... and the best thing is shifting ranges without N
http://www.pirate4x4.com/tech/billavist ... Manual.pdf
SSS wrote: AND YOU WANT TO CHECKOUT THOSE GUYS!:
http://www.tellico4x4.com/nv4500-transmissions.htm ... they have the AA NV4500 (GM and Dodge) to Jeep 231 adapter(s) as well ... w output shaft!
and btw ... more splines NE stronger (if same or slightly bigger shaft diameter and crappy material)
the shaft material and the spline cut are your ticket!
SSS wrote: You know that a manual conversion implies a new manual tune on the pcm, a clutch pedal, hydraulic cylinders and lines, a heavy duty clutch kit, new tranfercase and adapter or just the adapter to the 231, new driveshafts etc. etc. etc.
In fact the 6l80 is a stoud transmission - and it should've been able to handle my v8. Anyway the thing is the programming and calibration.SSS wrote: oh ... and I really don't know why all this hassle ... the 6L80E crapped out ... the rebuilders and tuners here could not deal with it.
get a properly built one with tune! (instead of sending in your pcm you buy additionally HP tuners software from summit ... read out your pcm ... send the file to them ... apply the new file ... done!)
http://centurytransmission.com/super-6L ... sion-build
thats what all those supercharged camaro drag freaks love
and I am sure you can get a new billet outputshaft with the right length and spline count for whatever adapter and transfercase.
Btw. the 1st is absolutely not unusable in fact its a 4:1 ratio ... with my engine this is going quit well on my 3,73 R&P and up to 70km/h in 4hi - but then i really want to shift to 2nd / 3rd... but yeah ... ok there we are again at the beginning of the topic.SSS wrote: And why not go with a simpler and tougher race transmission with fully manual valve body
all the tuners have to do is completely remove torque and shift management fro your PCM (easier then fine tune all the shit!):
http://www.finishlinetrans.com/transmissions/index.htm great reputation!
http://www.gmentransmissions.com/gm-che ... tinum.html another great builder!
http://www.extremeautomatics.com/transm ... 4l80e.html
pick your choice some of them have billet shafts
(you notice that they are happy without the 6l80e? there is a reason! with bumped up power the 6l80e likes to weld clutches and steels together, needs a complicated tune adjustment and has a useless 1st, otherwise its a coool tranny ...
here a guy who drove both : his remarks make sense http://ls1tech.com/forums/14951286-post10.html)
The 4L80 might be tough ... but the HD231 is not as tough as a gear driven D300 or a gear driven NP205 (http://www.jbconversions.com/reviews/sh ... 005.12&p=1 and http://www.jbconversions.com/reviews/sh ... 007.01&p=1 ) . The NV4500 is specified for 800NM so its much better then the 4L80 which is specified for 600NM (same same as 6l80e http://www.gmperformancedivision.com/co ... ations.pdf )SSS wrote: if you want to save money ... keep your 231 ... get a JB 231 HD wide kit ... and keep your driveshafts (the 4l80e is only 0.25" longer than the 6L80e). I am pretty sure a built 4l80e with a upgraded shaft/HD231 comes cheaper than your junkyard manual/dana300 experiments and is much tougher! (the nv4500 swap is parts plus labor plus experiments plus burnt clutches!)
yes an atlas is also an option. But still i am really fed up with automatic gearboxes. I hate the 42rle and the lack of control. The 6L80 had everything i wanted from a gearbox except, that nobody was able to tame the beast in here ... so really i think the manual is the way to go. Even then i don't have to worry about additional oilcooler and so on... and i gain the control. I am not afraid of having a manual in the desert and for sure i will burn my first clutch a bit faster then the next one ... but ok this is part of the game then.SSS wrote: If you want monster all you need is a atlas behind it (built 4L80e or built 6L80e) and a custom output shaft and you will have a bad axx kick axx monster drivetrain (until you find the next weak point )
has slip yokes?MalteJK wrote:Ok - besides all that i found a TC : a NP261 ... so i just need to check if it already has the fix for the oilpump issue...