Abu Dhabi Off-Road Club Forums

Osama, dear,

1. regarding cooling I suggest trying the STOCK rad and fan first ... (with high flow WP and ported thermostat housing and 180deg tehrmostat anyway)
A nice trick is to avoid the heater core by inserting a hose loop ... the heater cores are clogged up for sure on older Jeeps. (An they are DIFFICULT to flush because of small diameters inside) The stock rad is going to be flushed ... a replacement is cheap as well.
IF ... and only IF you are dissatisfied you can easilly sort that out later (which aluminium rad, which efan etc ...)

2. you have only two choices ... pull your old block or don't pull. Regardless of the recipe. The parts can be ordered all while your engine is still in place ... when everything is collected, the turnaround times if you are using your own stock block will all be quite close, regardless of the recipe. Has the advantage that you do not need ALL NEW components/accessories around your block as well.
If you are using a second junkyard block ... you can build slowly, but you might have some surprises as well, depending on the junk
I would say: check your head! no cracks? high flow version? strong casting version? (all on jeepstrokers) ... if your head is a good one: use you own block!
(the junkyard blocks and heads usually have a history ... eventually warped or cracked by some HOT turbo nos stroker experiment otherwise those engines are unkapputbar )

just my 2 fils

regarding the block, refer to Cybershot's Frankenstein stroker build up thread. he did a lot wrong on his car (we discovered later), but i trust the stroker is perfect. He went to choose the block and tested it...

still, the original engine of the Cherokee is in a crate in Mussafah, and will be probably scrapped if we don't get it out of the yard of Tobias'ex office. (DesertDawg new owner)

Xof wrote:regarding the block, refer to Cybershot's Frankenstein stroker build up thread. he did a lot wrong on his car (we discovered later), but i trust the stroker is perfect. He went to choose the block and tested it...

still, the original engine of the Cherokee is in a crate in Mussafah, and will be probably scrapped if we don't get it out of the yard of Tobias'ex office. (DesertDawg new owner)

hey ... this block should be OK! not tampered with ... and not too much kms ... known history!!!
(and from a 2001 cherokee ...)

Xof wrote:still, the original engine of the Cherokee is in a crate in Mussafah, and will be probably scrapped if we don't get it out of the yard of Tobias'ex office. (DesertDawg new owner)

Scrapped? That mutha's itching to find a new owner who'll lovingly recycle it into a stroker.

If you go for dual electric fans...get the wiring right. Here is what I did...

http://www.ad4x4.com/club/viewtopic.php ... 1&start=15

Frankenstein came with its orginal 4.0L engine (stored in a wooden crate at Massafah).

Would you like to buy it? Going cheap.

DesertDawg wrote:Frankenstein came with its orginal 4.0L engine (stored in a wooden crate at Massafah).

Would you like to buy it? Going cheap.

How cheap?

Hi Dino,

Had not thought about that.

Would 2000 be about right? No idea really. I think it has about 80K on it.

David

I don't think that engine will fit into my RB or it will need some work and parts to fit ..

But, the price is extremely tempting. !

DesertDawg wrote:Hi Dino,

Had not thought about that.

Would 2000 be about right? No idea really. I think it has about 80K on it.

That's certainly cheap but I'd only think about buying it so that I could tear it apart, rebuild it into a 4.6L stroker, and sell it on again.

I have never seen it and I don't know what ancillaries it has on it......

OK, Here is the updates list. I need to buy things ASAP if I'm going to finish the installation on January ..


1- Jeep 258 Crank Shaft (QTY 1) : http://www.ad4x4.com/club/viewtopic.php ... 44#p194544
2- Crankshaft Damper Spacer #HESBS (QTY 1): http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... catId=7757
3- Jeep 4.0L 6.125" rods (QTY 6) : Use the current ones
4- Sealed Power CP-Series Rod Bearings set of 6 (QTY 1) : Buy from WM
4- ICON Performance Pistons IC944KTM-030 kit (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/UEM-IC944KTM-030/
5- CompCams #68-231-4 206/214 degree camshaft (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-68-231-4/
6- Mopar valve springs (QTY 6): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-5249464/
7- Mopar valve retainers (QTY 6): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4452032/
8- Mopar Valve Keepers (QTY 6): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/DCC-4529218/
9- 24 LB Bosch Ford Refurbished Injectors set of 8 : http://www.ebay.com/itm/320765208016?_t ... 54&vxp=mtr
10- Flowkooler water pump (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/BRA-1747/
11- JET 180 degree thermostat (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/JET-10170/
12- High Flow Thermostat Housing #HFTH http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... 3007&catId
13- Ported HO 1.91"/1.50" cylinder head (QTY 1) : Modify my current head
14 - Victor 0.043" head gasket #54249 (QTY 1): http://www.hesco.us/shop.asp?action=det ... 384&catId=
10- Roller Rockers (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CSP-S40196/
11- ARP High Performance Series Connecting Rod Bolt Kits (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ARP-112-6001/
12- Painless Wiring 62mm Throttle Body (QTY 1): http://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRF-65300/
14- Griffin 3" thick vs stock Radiator vs Custom made local radiator (QTY 1): we will see ...
15- SamcoSport Silicone Coolant hose kit (QTY 1): http://www.quadratec.com/products/51207_641X_PG.htm

Is that it or I'm I missing anything again ??

Since I'm opening the engine, I decided to change as much as possible to be on the safe side ..

BTW, what you guys think about the Roller Rockers ? are they worth it or should I stick with the stock ones ??

Also, do I need to also buy some sort of a programmer or super chip ??

Thanks for the great help guys !

- re roller rockers: some people have regretted using them ... most of the established stroker long blocks like Golen or ATK come without them standard. I would look into them with much bigger cams like the 235 or 239.

I have not seen new CAM bearings and no new main crank bearings!
I have not seen new length lifter push rods (needed if you reduce gasket thickness or/and shave head or block ) and new lifters!!! (new cam=new lifters!!!)
YOU NEED A NEW TIMING SET! (for beeing able to clock your new cam right!) (Cloyes !) ... and you need a new cam shaft retainer spacer with spring (comp cams are old style cam shafts!)


since you will have your block out ... consider a new OE oilpump complete with pickup ... rotating parts and a 1997 block will have quite some sludge in it

forget about the superchips programmer or any programmer! what you need to set your AFR right is a adjustable fuel sensor/regulator thinggy , and Unichip (and a tune by a dynoshop) or a splitsecond FC-1 ... you have an old PCM, not as adaptive as the newer ones ... so you will not have all possible power without having the AFR corrected!? (Dino??? )

1. You can buy the new cam bearings now but I suggest you wait on the main/rod bearings until you've received the crankshaft, taken it to the machine shop, and had the journals polished. Depending on the condition of the journals, the machine shop may tell you that standard size bearings are OK or advise you to go undersize.

2. Whenever you rebuild an old engine you should replace the oil pump (standard will be fine) and timing set. You can buy the Cloyes dual roller timing set from Summit Racing http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CLO-9-3127/ and since you'll be using a CompCams cam, you'll also need the recessed bolt with spring and thrust pin http://www.hescosc.com/shop.asp?action= ... catId=7758 to fix the camshaft sprocket to the cam.

3. Roller rockers are always a good idea when you add a higher lift cam and stiffer valve springs.

4. You can still use the stock length pushrods. If you shave the head or block, you could add shims under the rockers to restore normal lifter preload.

5. The older PCMs are more forgiving and usually adapt to mods pretty well. There aren't any adjustable fuel pressure regulators available for '96+ models so it's even more important to choose the correct injector size so that you won't need to make many AFR adjustments later.

More reading is required ..

Where do I get all of those parts ?