All you need to know about offroading mods! very informative

Anything related to off-road Technical questions and Modifications
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MegaMoe
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All you need to know about offroading mods! very informative

Post by MegaMoe »

I've gather all the information you might need to know about from different websites: very informative (Thx to Iguana too).

NO manufacturer builds the perfect truck. They all try to do things right but not one of them has gotten it perfect yet. It is hard because none of them know exactly who we are, and they can't build one to suit the needs without thinking about their other customers. They don't know what trails we drive on, how many miles we drive to work, or whether or not we let our kids drive the truck. So until they come out with the perfect one, we will just have to find one that is close enough and modify, modify, modify.

The biggest favour you can do for yourself is to start with a vehicle that is close to what you need. If you want a big-block and full-floating axles, find a 1-ton. Some thing for those of you who have a 2WD but want to build up a 4x4. Save yourself the heartache and find something with a transfer case.

These 7 modifications outline the steps to take it if you want to have fun running the trails and come back to tell your friends about it.

Gears:
Adding taller tires almost always requires that you change the ring and pinion gears in your axles to get back the performance. Actually, you still have the same amount of power coming from the engine but now you are turning taller and heavier tires.
High gear ratios (numerically lower) suck when you go to bigger tires because the engine now has less leverage on tires, and the engine will no longer operate in the rpm range where it makes power. The gears in your axles and transmission work with the engine to multiply the amount of power available to turn the tires. With lower gears you gain the necessary leverage to crawl over obstacles instead of having to make full-throttle assaults.
Off-road, gearing translates into control. If you aren't geared low enough for your truck/engine/tires combination, you aren't going to have the control you need for climbing and descending obstacles. The less throttle you have to use the better off you will be, and you'll look like a better driver too. Save the 3.55s and 35-inch tires for someone else's rig. Take advantage of overdrive transmission and gear low for better roadability. You're never going to get a VW fuel economy with your truck so don't waste time trying. If you find you have geared to low, just upgrade to a taller tires.

Tires:
No matter what else you do to your truck, its performance will always be limited by the four contact patches the tires make with the ground. To improve your truck's traction you often need to increase the amount of rubber you put in contact with the trail. That means wider tires. To provide more clearance for rocker panels, bumpers, and differentials you need taller tires. However, larger tires are heavy and the weight and added traction will work find weaknesses in your driveline. Huge rubber and weak axles do not work together. Trust me, those people with 38s mounted on 10 bolt axles will be doing an axleswap soon.
Yes, you can run a "mud" tire with great results on the rocks and in the sand. We see Boggers and BFGs on every run we go on. For me, a mud tire is an off-road tire that works on almost every type of terrain, and an all-terrain tires is a street tire that you can still use off-road. Before you go nuts with the family SUV, remember this : Generally, the better a tire works on the trail the less you will like it on the street. Soft mud tires can be great for everything but that 45 minutes commute, and nothing burns down the tread like highway miles. These things aren't cheap, so don't go wasting the ultimate trail tires on a truck that has to take you 100 miles to work everyday.

Lift:
Somehow you have to be able to fit bigger tires under those fenders. Body lifts are attractive because of their perceived lower initial cost, but they do nothing to improve how well your truck's suspension works. If possible get a kit that is going to make the suspension articulate better. You want more travel, better flex, and a good ride. You can get all these things whether you have a coil springs, leaf springs, or a combination of the two.
Steering corrections should go hand in hand with suspension lifts, s leave room in the budget for a dropped pitman arm or modified drag link. Extended brake lines, lengthening drive shafts, and reworking (or removing) the sway bar may also be necessary. Taking short cuts with your suspension will reward you with less-than-desirable performance every time performance every time you drive your truck, and if not done correctly, could put you, your passengers, and everyone else around you in danger.

Engine;
If the engine is sunning right it's the last part of the drive train you want to muck with. Mud-boggers and sand-draggers will have to build strong engines right off the bat. But the rockcrawlers can often get away with stock powerplant. Most of us should make conservative mods to improve the efficiency of our engine, such as a free flowing exhaust or a better carburetor, Perhaps even an EFI conversion to allow the engine to run at extreme angles.
Every type of four-wheeling will require and engine that makes reliable power. Don't get too carried away with engine components that will reduce reliability and drivability. An engine with a smooth idle and cool temperature gauge will reward you more than that radically cammed mil with dual quads on a tunnel ram intake. Those components do work; just make sure you don't build a drag racing engine unless that's what you need. The opposite of that is also true. Don't expect a V-6 to pull your rig through those loose sand or mud the way the big-block would unless you want to run a supercharger or nitros. Even then you will be better served to start with the big-block if that is the type of power you need to make.
Build the engine to make power in the rpm range that you use most. Magazines generally tell you to build for low-end torque, and that is a good advice if your vehicle never goes over 2,800 rpm. Do some testing through and see what speeds your engine turns during the type of driving you do, and then make your component selection accordingly. If you find that you do most of your crawling between idle and 2,000 rpm, then a low-end torque mill is for you. These are the speeds that diesel engines work best so don't be surprised when you see more and more of them out on the trail.
If you like the mud, or play in man-sized sandboxes, you need to go to swap meets with your drag racing buddies to get the go-fast goodies that will make the top-end power. Just make sure you are building your engine for the way you use it, not for how you think you should be using it.

Lockers:
Limited slips are fine for your tow vehicle, which may only see dirt occasionally, or your light duty trail rig. But when you're in the serious stuff, it will be disappointing if you have any thing less than a locker directing torque to all four tires.
Sure, everybody used limited slips with decent results by modulating the brake pedal of pulling up the e-brake to get the tire with traction turning. But you're going to be busy enough out on the trail without having to operate another lever or pedal. Getting both tires on the same axle to turn works wonders on sand, mud and on the rocks.
Prices and installation are similar for full-case lockers and limited slips, so why not get your money's worth the first time around? Installation is even easier with the new crop of drop-in lockers that use your stock carrier because there's no need to reset the ring-and-pinion.
Lockers do have some unique operation characteristics such as ratcheting noise, banging, clanging, and a tendency to produce under steer. A locker in the front axle will be more noticeable than the rear because it will make steering more difficult. Unless you have manual locking hubs or some type of axle disconnect, stay away from an auto-locker in the front.
Fishtailing is more common with trucks equipped with rear lockers due to the fact that by making both tires spin forward you lose most of the lateral stability that keeps you pointed ahead. Tire wear also increases slightly with on-pavement use because the inside tire in the turn will tend to scrub when on the gas. These negative traits are easily adopted to and well worth the trade-off in your truck. If you have room in your budget you can install a selectable-type locker that can be turned on and off when needed.

Lights:
Driving lights are your friends. When it's full moon to show you the way, you are going to find that any extra light you can through on the trail may be to your advantage. Protect your lights so they are there when you need them. The higher you mount the lights, the farther ahead you will be able to see. Mount the lights up front, but make sure they aren't the leading edge of the truck or it's back to light removal time! Keep in mind too that when you mount lights in front of the radiator you could be blocking precious air that your truck needs to keep cool.
You can go too far. There is no need to mount 10 lights on the front of your rig. you are not in Las Vegas and you don't need people in outer space seeing you. Electrical wiring is critical, and like the winch, the best light in the world won't work worth a damn if you cheese out and do a poor job wiring them up.
The manufacturers have done us a lot of favors by providing good install kits. The best lights will use relays and thick (low-gauge) wire.
One last piece of advice: Make sure you keep extra bulbs handy and that the battery is in good shape. Most people use their lights to set up camp at night, and bright lights can suck a lot of power. You don't want to have a dead battery when you go to start your truck the next morning.

Winch:
Having your own tow truck to follow you around out on the trail would be nice, but it isn't gonna happen. We always seem to find fun in places that AAA won't go. You shouldn't be out on the trail alone, but when you are, you need to be your own rescue vehicle. When your truck fails to get you through the tough parts you need a winch to take you the rest of the way.
Which winch is right for you? Figure out what your vehicle weight in its trail-ready condition. A 6,000-pound winch will certainly move your truck when it is empty and in the driveway. But when you are loaded down in the mud or trying to pull your self up a rock wall, you will need more capacity. The rule of thumb is to get a winch with a capacity 1 1/2 times the weight of your truck. Bring along a snatch block to effectively double your pulling power because there will be situations when you'll need all the power you can get. When attaching the winch to your truck you need to make sure it is firmly mounted to your frame with at least Grade 5 hardware. You are sure to find your self vertically lifting your rig with this winch and you don't want Home Depot bolts shearing off and removing the winch from your truck.
A winch will add a good deal of weight to the front of your truck so keep that in mind when you are planning your front lift height. Also take the time to do a good wiring job for your new rescue toy. Splurge and get a good battery (or two) and use the best electrical connectors you can find. Most winches come with good hardware. Make sure you don't make weak links by adding inferior components or using a poor ground. There aren't many safety nets on the trail, but winch will get you in and out of more trouble than any other addition you can make to your truck.


Even though the application is refered to as an SUV most of the engines are common across the board.

Even though your trucks engine currently sends plenty of power to the wheels, there are always ways of getting more juice out of the powerplant. There are many methods that can be used to accomplish this, some more obvious than others. Many of the best-known methods involve increasing the airflow, fuel flow, and removal of spent gases. While the list of products that add extra pulling power can be fairly easy to name, it's the others that require a little more digging. Sometimes making the engine perform more efficiently can be the best way to improve throttle response and acceleration. This guide covers both aspects of improving performance in your sport utility. We picked 20 of our favorite bolt-on performance items to show you. The guide will show a little of what is involved in the installation, and explain what the components generally do to make the engine perform. At the end of the story are sources for more information about these items.


Air Induction
With any engine modification, improving airflow or fuel flow into the engine, or improving the flow of exhaust gases out of the engine, will result in increased power. Air induction kits, also known as air intakes, were designed to provide optimal airflow. Each system uses a tube that provides reduced restriction to the flow of air, which increases the amount of air that can be brought into the engine. These kits use a two-pronged approach to increasing airflow: They straighten out the path the air takes, and they have a filter made to provide more surface area for the air to flow through. Another method that is used in some air induction kits is the use of cold air. The theory behind cold-air intakes is that cold air is more dense with oxygen than warm air, meaning that you can actually get more oxygen in a given amount of space if it is at a cooler temperature. When the SUV's computer senses the increased air, it adds more fuel and spark to accommodate it, thus creating more power.


Spark Plugs and Spark Plug Wires
Plug wires can make an ignition system work to its full potential. Installing a new set of spark plugs and plug wires won't give the vehicle more horsepower and torque, but it will improve the way your ignition system functions, and therefore will make the engine run better. By replacing these items with aftermarket plugs and wires, the ignition's spark will be made more consistent, and will help ensure the ignition of the air/fuel mixture every time. Also, high-quality spark plugs will remove heat from the combustion chamber while remaining resistant to heat. Some plugs have been designed to create a larger spark as well. When it comes to spark plug wires, a good set will be built with the durability to resist wear from heat and will provide low resistance for the best possible transfer from the plugs.


Throttle Body - Throttle Body Spacer
Throttle bodies also work to bring air into the engine, and installing a larger throttle body will bring more air in. Adding a throttle body spacer to the mix doesn't increase airflow, but allows the engine to make better use of the air that's being brought in. The AIRAID throttle body spacer shown here has a design that causes the incoming air to spin. The spinning action continues into the combustion chamber, which affects the air/fuel mixture itself. These items can increase airflow by 25 percent or more, depending on the vehicle, and can improve power by 5 to 10 hp.


Replacement Air Filters
It's likely that the air filter that came with your sport utility is made of paper, and you'll need to replace it within a couple of years. Air filters made of paper are not the best material for filtration, and will not last very long. Vehicle manufacturers like them because they are affordable and there are thousands of applications they work with. A good, easy way to add power is by replacing this filter with a reusable filter. These filters have multiple-layer elements with more pleats than the OE filter, meaning there is more surface area to improve airflow. Some filters also have an extra layer of oil or synthetic material to filter smaller particulates. These filters can be good for as long as 50,000 miles, can improve fuel economy by 10 percent, and can provide as much as a 15hp increase, depending on the vehicle.


Catalytic Converter
Removing spent exhaust gases from the engine is only part of what your SUV's exhaust system does. Another role it plays is that of emissions reducer -- the catalytic converter, in particular, exists to make sure that fewer harmful emissions pollute the air. It does this by converting the toxins into safe emissions. Over time, the converter can become clogged, and not only does it function poorly, but the entire exhaust system can be compromised as well. When a catalytic converter wears out, replacing it with an aftermarket catalytic converter can get the exhaust as good as or in some cases, better than new. Many aftermarket catalytic converters have a higher flow rate than stock, so the replacement can provide even more power. Some states do not allow you to replace your catalytic converter until it is worn out or has significant mileage on it. As we would recommend with all of the modifications in this story, make sure installing these components on your SUV is legal in your state.


Exhaust System
On the other side of the engine, the exhaust system is designed to get spent exhaust gases out of the engine, and out of the vehicle. Aftermarket exhausts are made to provide the quickest route for the gases, with the fewest restrictions possible. Improving flow on this side of the process means that air/fuel combustion can be done more quickly and efficiently. Once spent gases are out of the way, there is room for new air and fuel to come in. In addition, OE mufflers are made to reduce sound, and the components used to do this can cause a loss of performance. After-cat exhausts can improve performance by 10 hp and much, much more, depending on the system you choose.


Fuel Pump
Installing a better-designed or higher-pressure fuel pump can increase the flow of fuel to your engine. Even though more flow can be advantageous, when choosing a new fuel pump it is important to select one that provides the right flow for your needs. A race-ready pump, while it provides incredible flow and pressure, would most likely be too much pump for your sport utility. A new fuel pump is almost a necessity after a new supercharger has been installed, and many supercharger systems include a new pump. There are two types of fuel pumps, in-tank and inline, that are either electric or mechanical designs. The inline pumps can be installed in more locations on the vehicle than the in-tank design but are farther from the source of fuel. Mechanical pumps are found mostly on older vehicles, and electric pumps are the common type for newer SUVs.


Ignition UpgradesA new ignition system can help improve throttle response, power, and fuel economy, and can smooth out your SUV's idle. Aftermarket ignition systems, especially multiple-sparking units, provide more spark than standard ignition systems under a specific rpm, and emit a single spark above that rpm. These sparks also last longer. The combination of the two means more of the air/fuel mixture will be burned, providing more power to the engine and reducing the amount of wasted materials. The ignition system can make the engine operate much more efficiently. There are many types of aftermarket ignitions that can make a difference on your vehicle; the trick is finding the right one for you. There are some that are ideal for towing, off-road, and heavy-duty applications, some specifically for supercharged engines, and others for normal daily driving. Other things you can do to improve the ignition system include replacing the distributor (if your SUV is so equipped) and adding a rev control system, which can save your engine from damage if the driveline fails.


Engine Programmer/Chips
The theory behind modifying the vehicle's computer is that an aftermarket chip will customize the air/fuel ratio, ignition advance, and transmission shift points to fit your SUV's needs. For stock vehicles, it can optimize these functions, and for modified vehicles, it will change the ratio, ignition advance, and shift points to best match the needs of the new components. While you can purchase a programmer or chip and a thermostat separately, it is recommended that you install both at the same time, and some power packages come with a new thermostat. According to the manufacturers, these computer modifiers can increase power by as much as 30 hp.


Thermostat
Replacing your SUV's thermostat with a lower-temperature model causes the engine's fan to come on sooner than it does with the OE thermostat. This reduced engine temperature can cause the motor to operate more efficiently. The only people who should think twice about replacing their vehicle's thermostats with low-temperature units are those who live in cold climates, where heat is necessary to counter the cold weather. Choosing the right thermostat is not simply a matter of picking the lowest-temperature unit. Engines do like some heat, and if you choose one that causes the fan to come on at too low a temperature, it will start to have less of an effect on the overall cooling of the engine.


MAF Sensors
Mass airflow sensore (MAF) directly airflow, via the sensing element in the air intake. By measuring the airflow at the source, it knows exactly how much air is going into the engine, and can react quickly to changes in flow. As it notes changes in airflow, it sends a signal to ensure the proper fuel and sparl are added to the air to keep the mix correct. Because the mixture is much more accurate and changes with the situation, performance can be improved by 10 hp to 15 hp.


Headers
When you bought your sport utility from the dealer, it came with exhaust manifolds, two for V-configured engines and one for inlines. These manifolds remove exhaust gases from each cylinder, but are not necessarily the most efficient parts to do the job. Headers, which replace the stock exhaust manifolds, efficiently pull, or scavenge the exhaust gases and draw in the next fuel charge. By doing this, headers reduce the pressure that is caused by gas buildup, and make sure that the air/fuel mix is clean. Headers can increase horsepower by 35 and torque by 75 lb-ft, and can improve fuel economy. There are several styles and protective coatings available, and different headers will improve your SUV's power at different points in the rpm range.


Fuel Injectors
Again, flow is a very important part of improving the performance of your sport utility. Increasing the capability of the fuel system to provide fuel for the mix makes it easier to add more air and spark for more power. Aftermarket injectors do just that. If you add a component that increases the volume or pressure of air that enters the combustion chamber, aftermarket injectors can ensure that the fuel side of the combination will be there and will provide the fuel that is needed. Larger injectors are especially worthwhile if your SUV has a supercharger or other high-performance modifications.


Intake Manifold
When you begin to look at making modifications to the key components of the engine to improve power, it is important to look at the entire engine for these improvements. For example, replacing the cam can make a difference in power, but there will be more horsepower and torque if you also replace the intake manifold. Just as replacing exhaust manifolds with headers means a more efficient method of moving gases, replacing OE intake manifolds with aftermarket items means better airflow into the engine. Good aftermarket intake manifolds are application specific and are built to provide the best amount of air in for that application. This is done by reducing restrictions and by making the design of the manifold best fit the design of that specific engine.


Pulleys
There are many reasons why replacing your engine's pulleys can improve the motor's power. If the new pulleys are made from durable materials, they will last longer than the originals, providing less belt slippage and improved contact with the serpentine belt. Smaller pulleys can increase engine cooling by speeding up both water flow and engine fan speed. Using smaller pulleys can also mean a significant increase in power. This change slows the serpentine's belt speed by 25 percent, causing fuel efficiency to increase, and power to go up by 8 to 10 hp. All pulleys, except the alternator pulley, are commonly replaced.


Electric Fan
An electric fan is a more efficient design than the standard pulley-driven fan. Electric fans are made to work more precisely with the engine's needs, turning on and off when the situation calls for it. While the engine fan is more necessary during idle and in heavy traffic, and less necessary on the open highway, the stock fan is less capable of accurately working with changing driving circumstances. Electric fans can also pull in much more air than standard fans. This type of fan can increase horsepower and torque and can make tow vehicles perform better.


Nitrous
Nitrous oxide systems started out as an added boost used in racing but have since been translated to street performance applications. Nitrous systems inject additional air and cool the air that enters the combustion chamber. This process adds as much as 150 hp in an instant, but it is only meant to be used for brief amounts of time. It is a power upgrade that can make getting on the freeway a lot of fun, but it isn't something that will give your SUV long-term improved performance or efficiency. This is a modification that is safe when done at a trustworthy shop by knowledgeable technicians but can be dangerous without the proper safety precautions.


Engine Work
When it gets right down to it, the most complex (and one of the most effective) ways to get more power out of your engine is by optimizing the engine's design. Replacing the cam and the cylinder heads can make the engine dramatically more efficient and can cause the creation of more power from the air/fuel mixture. Four-stroke engines use exhaust and intake valves. The exhaust valves remove spent gases, making room for new air and fuel. The intake valves bring in the next charge. When the camshaft rotates, it causes the valves to open and close, and the timing of this process can make the most out of the air/fuel mixture that powers your SUV. Replacing the cam can mean improved high-rpm performance for better low-rpm performance, depending on the unit you choose. New cylinder heads can mean an increase in the amount of air coming in to the engine, increasing power.


High-Output Alternator
A high-output alternator will make your entire engine run better by providing the right power to make the electrical system work properly. With many SUVs in today's world, there are entertainment features and electronics goodies installed on-board to keep passengers happy while on the road. Unfortunately, these devices can put a load on the engine, and if the alternator is not a high-output model, it probably can't take the load. If you've sat at a red light and noticed your headlights dimmed when you lowered the power windows, your alternator is not providing enough juice to the system. Adding extra batteries has been the common solution to the power problem, but the truth is the alternator is the device that powers your mobile electronics system, off-road lights, and electric fan. If your alternator can't handle the demand, the power can be drawn from the battery. High-output alternators can do a better job of powering these accessories and are built to withstand the heat created by your vehicle's engine.


Superchargers
The biggest, most readily noticeable modification you can do to give your SUV more power is to have a supercharger installed. A supercharger can safely increase power by 75 to 100 hp, while dramatically improving torque. While there are several different supercharger designs, they generally push pressurized air into the combustion chamber, essentially putting a lot more air in the same amount of space. Some add that air straight into the chamber, while others force the added breathing in before the throttle body. As the technology advances, and more automakers become comfortable with the long-term reliability of superchargers, they will become more and more available from the showroom. In fact, while some vehicles come from the factory with superchargers, there is a growing trend of the option of superchargers as dealer-added items, which fall under the vehicle's original warranty. A supercharger installation is a worthwhile all-day process, not recommended for the novice do-it-yourselfer.*
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Post by iguana »

Hey Megamoe, if you write all this information, what will we write then?

Thanks, very good information and very useful
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Post by Mpenzi »

Excellent and informative
thanks man.

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:nopics:

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Post by Sharbel »

:nopics:


:D
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Post by XJ »

really usefull information.

Quation:

If i remove the catalytic and put a direct pipe instead it should give me more horse power? I bielive yes the other question is i will have more loud sound from the exhaust system and does it effect registration (emmission test) at Moror??
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Post by MegaMoe »

XJ wrote:really usefull information.

Quation:

If i remove the catalytic and put a direct pipe instead it should give me more horse power? I bielive yes the other question is i will have more loud sound from the exhaust system and does it effect registration (emmission test) at Moror??
yes it will not pass, and it will not give more hp.
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Post by adiga »

megamoe wrote:
XJ wrote:really usefull information.

Quation:

If i remove the catalytic and put a direct pipe instead it should give me more horse power? I bielive yes the other question is i will have more loud sound from the exhaust system and does it effect registration (emmission test) at Moror??
yes it will not pass, and it will not give more hp.
Long time ago, I did remove the catalizer from my ZJ. V8 1994
Pass the Moroor, and I think I got some bhp
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Post by MegaMoe »

adiga wrote:
megamoe wrote:
XJ wrote:really usefull information.

Quation:

If i remove the catalytic and put a direct pipe instead it should give me more horse power? I bielive yes the other question is i will have more loud sound from the exhaust system and does it effect registration (emmission test) at Moror??
yes it will not pass, and it will not give more hp.
Long time ago, I did remove the catalizer from my ZJ. V8 1994
Pass the Moroor, and I think I got some bhp
i did try also, it showed engine error light on and lately my friend had a problem with his catalyic convertor and they didnt pass him, this month they've been very strict that they didnt pass wrangler with wildfire edition. big problem for jeep dealers.
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tires

Post by MACKTHEKNIFE »

Salaam.I'm am very new to the 4x4 scene.I have recently bought me a 2004 jeep cherokee.It is a second hand vehicle with 87 000km on the clock.What is the correct tyre size and pressure for this type of vehicle.As this vehicle is very much standard,what do u recommend i do to it to tackle those sand dunes.... :roll:

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Post by Mac »

megamoe wrote:
adiga wrote:
megamoe wrote: yes it will not pass, and it will not give more hp.
Long time ago, I did remove the catalizer from my ZJ. V8 1994
Pass the Moroor, and I think I got some bhp
i did try also, it showed engine error light on and lately my friend had a problem with his catalyic convertor and they didnt pass him, this month they've been very strict that they didnt pass wrangler with wildfire edition. big problem for jeep dealers.
That was one of the reasons I sold my Wildfire edition Wrangler. Western motors said they would give me a letter to give to Traffic Licensing Dept. I asked the guy in charge of that dept, he said they have been told to be very strict with Modified cars and mine would not pass, unless I removed all mods for test and replaced with stock, I couldn,t be bothered with the hassle.
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Re: tires

Post by iguana »

MACKTHEKNIFE wrote:Salaam.I'm am very new to the 4x4 scene.I have recently bought me a 2004 jeep cherokee.It is a second hand vehicle with 87 000km on the clock.What is the correct tyre size and pressure for this type of vehicle.As this vehicle is very much standard,what do u recommend i do to it to tackle those sand dunes.... :roll:
Hi mactheknife ... You don't need to do any modification to take the cherokee to the desert as you are still newbie ... You will not go to a challenging spots at this stage so you can drive your car with us as it is. just make sure it has front and rear towing points.

Tyre pressure is 32 PSI.

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belbassiouni
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Post by belbassiouni »

Hi Megamoe

Its me again, I believe I started giving you a headache, now I finalized the deal with Jeep Cherokee Sport 2005 as second car to avoid making the non jeepers angry from me and to satisfy jeepers I am now playing the role of Peace Dove :heart: between both.

Some club members recommended lift kit and some not. However I feel the car is substantially low and I want to avoid damaging The undercarriage . What is your recommendation concerning the following:-
1. Lift kit Old Man 2” Light or medium load? What about shock absorbers?
2. Current tires 235/70 R16 can I go wider with the same rim and up to what level or what is the recommended rim and size without having problem in hitting the chases with the tire.
Taking into consideration that I am not intending to go beyond intermediate level with this car.
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Post by MegaMoe »

belbassiouni wrote:Hi Megamoe

Its me again, I believe I started giving you a headache, now I finalized the deal with Jeep Cherokee Sport 2005 as second car to avoid making the non jeepers angry from me and to satisfy jeepers I am now playing the role of Peace Dove :heart: between both.

Some club members recommended lift kit and some not. However I feel the car is substantially low and I want to avoid damaging The undercarriage . What is your recommendation concerning the following:-
1. Lift kit Old Man 2” Light or medium load? What about shock absorbers?
2. Current tires 235/70 R16 can I go wider with the same rim and up to what level or what is the recommended rim and size without having problem in hitting the chases with the tire.
Taking into consideration that I am not intending to go beyond intermediate level with this car.
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Post by iguana »

belbassiouni wrote:Taking into consideration that I am not intending to go beyond intermediate level with this car.
This is the biggest mistake in thinking Bahaa .. If you start upgrading then think extreme drives ...

Lift Kit, OME 2" Heavy Duty
Tires, I think you can go upto 30" without rubing

As this is your offroad toy, think bumper as well, put it in your budget and wait till you damage the existing one
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